Another Cordless Drills Buying Guide
Executive Summary about : Cordless Drills by www.consumerreports.org & www.mysimon.com
Getting started
You’re likely to hear a lot about lithium-ion (Li-Ion) batteries this year as they power more drills and drivers. Added power and run time per pound over the familiar nickel-cadmium (NiCd) cells are the major talking points. Greener design is also a plus, since Li-Ion batteries don’t contain toxic cadmium, which can leach into ground water if spent NiCd batteries are thrown into the trash instead of recycled.
Although all the advantages and added cost of Li-Ion batteries also apply to nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries, Li-Ion cells are currently the hot items in the industry.
Some drills are bundled with other cordless tools and sold as kits that typically include circular and reciprocating saws, a flashlight, and a carrying case. Some kits are a relatively good deal, while others are a collection of mediocre tools.
How To Choose
Not everyone needs maximum power and run time. Nearly any drill will do for hanging pictures and other easy tasks. Most lighter-duty drills are lighter in weight. Decide how much speed and power you need. Then keep these tips in mind:
Don’t go by voltage. Several 18-volt drills were bested by models with 14.4 and even 12 volts.
Look for work-saving features. The most capable drills and drivers have long run times, letting you do more work with fewer pauses to charge or change batteries. Recharge times of 30 minutes or less are another advantage. Some manufacturers offer a variety of tools without batteries and chargers so that you can power them with the ones you might already have.
Check battery prices. Some NiCd replacement cells cost as little as $25 compared with $90 or more for many Li-Ion and NiMH cells. While you can’t share batteries between brands, some let you buy their 18-volt drills, saws, and other tools with or without batteries and chargers, letting you build a collection à la carte for less.
Skip the gimmicks. Some drills include items, like gel-filled handle pads, that didn’t stand out in our tests. Our testers also found that the built-in laser levels on some models are difficult to use effectively.
Put your hands on it. Hold the drill or driver at shoulder height or higher to be sure it isn’t too heavy for overhead work. Check that its grip is free of bumps and sharp edges, and that its trigger works smoothly. Especially with heavier models, be sure the tool feels balanced without tipping up or down in front.
Besides checking a drill’s weight, check its balance by gripping it firmly and then lifting it to the wall as if you were about to drive a screw. The drill’s chuck should point straight ahead and not tilt up or dip down.
Be skeptical about specs. Ads and displays often imply that more voltage is better, which isn’t necessarily so. You’ll also see impressive-sounding torque ratings (in inch-pounds) and maximum speeds (in revolutions per minute). Just don’t expect the drill you buy to reach those speeds at home, since manufacturers typically conduct speed tests in the no-load mode–free-running without the drill bit. Our scores show which models drilled holes fastest, drove screws and bolts most powerfully, and ran longest per charge under demanding conditions.
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